Thursday, July 2, 2009

Flor de Cana


Viernes
It started raining this morning and has yet to stop. The rain brings a cool breeze and a nice lazy afternoon for updating my blog and reading at the cafe. Tomorrow I leave for Ometepe with Michael, Melissa, Steven from North Carolina, and Sara from UMass. We will travel in the afternoon and return Sunday afternoon.

Ometepe
Ometepe is an island inside Lake Nicaragua. Lake Nicaragua is freshwater, but contains unique bull sharks as part of its aquatic life. The Nican bull sharks used to be man eating, but due to the over fishing that began in the early 1900's, these sharks are a rare sighting today. The tiny island boasts beautiful beaches, a freshwater spring and hiking to a waterfall and active volcano. I look forward to the trip, and I am glad that we decided not to go to Costa Rica. Although only ten miles from the border towns, I hear it is much more of a tourist trap with expensive hotels and crowds of Gringos. I didn't travel all the way down here to see more of myself, thank you.

At Maderas beach where everyone surfs.

Part of our colorful group. Concept of Time
Hay mas tiempo que vida (There is more time than life.) So why hurry? The day-to-day approach to living life in Nicaragua may come from the necessity of survival, or it may just be an effect of the hot sun. Probably both. Nicaraguan life, in general, goes according to La Hora Nica (Nica Time), which means a meeting scheduled in Managua for 2:30pm might not start until 3pm, or an hour later in the countryside. Foreign travelers accustomed to La Hora Gringa, in which everything starts and stops exactly when planned, will spend their days in Nicaragua endlessly frustrated (and consistenly early for meetings). Appointments and meeting are loose, and excuses are easy to come by and universally accepted. Gradually, as you experience Nicaragua, this concept of time will win you over; just be careful when you go home.
Piggy banks at market.


Home security system.Safety
The safety in Nicaragua varies from city to city. The capital, Managua is very dangerous with its fair share of corruption and civil turmoil. Since I’ve been here the Managuan mayor was found dead, an apparent “suicide” with his own knife. News From Romeo Arrieta (thank you, friend): "Former Boxing Champion, Alexis Arguello, the Mayor of the Nicauraguan Capitol city, Managua was found dead today. The news calls it a "suicide", but I seriously doubt that. I highly doubt that a seated elected official would commit suicide without the "encouragement" of some outside force. Given the context of the recent coup that ousted President Zelaya in nearby Honduras, and the context of a drug cartel war, It seems more likely that Arguello was the target of organized crime."

When we arrived at the capitol we were told to immediately move on and not wait until nightfall. We heeded this warning, but I’ve since spoken to several other travelers who have enjoyed leisure time in Managua. Managua, however, isn’t a tourist destination as it offers no beach and only a poor city recovering from the constant natural disasters of volcanoes and earthquakes and the civil disorder that is the government. As far as my little San Juan, I have the same alert level as I would in any other large metropolitan city. During the day it’s safe and the scene is crowded and loud. All the homes have impressive metal doors and gated windows. Sometime after dinner the entire town shuts down and all the shops and homes are closed up tight. In the evenings I make sure to walk with at least one other person as the city turns into a ghost town. The only people out and about are the Nican troublemakers and foreigners looking for a good time at one of the local beach bars. The biggest crime around here is petty theft and robbery. While out I try to carry only the cash I need for the day and a copy of my passport. The foreigners who have been living here for a while tell me they’ve been broken into at least two times in three years, and our own Noah was pick-pocketed while attending the week of San Juan festivities. The police force is a handful of corrupt men toting AK-47’s. At their discretion the perpetrator can either be hauled off to jail or be asked to pay a bribe.

Child with chicken at the Farmacia.

Monkey at Pelican Eyes Resort
Sadly, a little blury. At the market in town, baby gets a shower.
Locals vs. Outsiders
Local grooming is very important and a marker of whether you are a local or an outsider. Nicans take great pride in their personal appearance and neatness. Even the poorest of campesino with his threadbare and patched clothing takes great care to tuck his shirt in and keep his clothes clean and wrinkle-free. The Nicans wear long pants even on the hottest of days, and the women garb themselves with long colorful dresses and aprons. The homes are very run down, but kept as tidy as possible. Every morning the street is full of people sweeping their porches and washing their floors. The outsiders include the surfer population that “follow the waves” back and forth from Costa Rica to Nica to El Salvador, the occasional frustrated volunteer, and the few who dare vacation down here. We all wear as little clothing as possible: the boys in shorts with no shirts and the girls in bathing suits and wrap skirts. Unshaven internationalistas wearing stained shorts, ripped T-shirts, and natty dreads stand out like sore, malodorous thumbs, even without their trademark bulky backpacks. In comparison to the locals we are the wild barbarians.
Michael, looking very serious.
Honor System
Purchasing food and drink down here is solely based on the honor system, and it seems to work quite flawlessly. I can walk down to Gato Negro for lunch and order a drink, salad, and sandwich. No one asks for payment as I peruse the store and eat my food. When I’m done, I walk up to the counter and tell them what I owe. Sometimes they double check with a calculator, but otherwise I pay and go on with my day. It would be very foolish to swindle around here as the community is quite small and gossip travels faster than my high school experience. Everyone knows where everyone else lives or is temporarily staying, and it would be only a matter of time and you would be in a lot of trouble.

At Masaya market.
Mastering the manual flush.
When your toilet’s manual pump mechanism breaks down or when the city water pressure fails you find yourself learning how to master the manual flush. Next to most of the toilets is a bucket of water that can be used to flush down anything solid. Additionally, with most flush toilets, it is always assumed that used toilet paper is to be put in the basket next to the toilet, not in the bowl, so as not to clog up the weak plumbing. You get used to it.

This is not my bathroom, but it is an example of what most of the locals use everyday.

Wednesday, July 1, 2009

Dear Diary: Jackpot!

Okay so it has been a few days since I've been on, but well... things have been busy around here and I've been having FUN!

Moving Day- Happy as a clam.
Tired of my living conditions, i.e. sparse running water and electricity, one bathroom for eight people and a bed that is really a love seat on the porch, I took it upon myself to move to a new location. Melissa has been living at a house up the road that is twice as nice and twice as cheap. For a now whopping $10 a day I have my own room and American style bathroom. Clean towels, a mirror and shelves to put my belongings. My eyes turned into saucers when I got the tour. For $3 I pay a taxi man to haul my belongings over to the new house, and my old landlord Sara grudgingly gives back the money I pre-paid for the rest of my stay. I don't feel bad though because the house is over full and she has three more coming today.

Estan Infermas
Everyone got sick. Except for me. I was tired of rice and beans and the occassional fish staring back at me... so tired... that I decided to quit eating at the house and have since went elsewhere for my daily cuisine. Breakfast: bananas and a granola bar. Lunch: salad, veggie sandwhich, and an iced green tea from the Gato Negro book/coffee house. Dinner: pizza or cheeseburger at one of the American style joints. I digress... back to the point. The point is that everyone is falling apart from both ends. Gil and Gretchen were in bed all day, and Scarlett may have something viral she picked up from the clinic. I'm glad now that I moved on to Spanish classes and afternoons at the surf beach. Life is good in comparison.

My new friends
My buddies here in Nica include a wide variety of humans from all over the world. Every night on the town is an ad for United Colors of Benetton-- save for colorful sweaters. California. North Carolina. Canada. Germany. Australia. Black Nicans. Tan Nicans. The Argentinian twins. One Dutch girl named Ilka. It's a crazy mix that has somehow worked out nicely, and we have become a nice little family unto ourselves.

This weekend
Ometepe. Definitely not going to miss out this time.

I'm having issues uploading pics today, and I'm hungry... I will write more later... about the culture and such that is around me, but for now, HASTA!

Monday, June 29, 2009

Primero dia del clase

Dia nueveI haven't been on in a couple of days because the weekend was somewhat uneventful. We enjoyed a Tribute to Michael Jackson on Saturday night... complete with latex gloves and dancing at Iguanas. I cannot express how unique the weather is around here. The evening brings a bit of reprieve from the heat with a cool breeze, but at the same time the entire sky is filled with amazing lightning shows and sporadic warm summer showers. While sitting on the patio at the bar you can look up at the hills and view the Jesus Christo statue whenever light fills the sky.

Melissa met a lovely Ausie, so now we know enough surfers for at least a couple of lessons this week. Sunday was Pelican Eyes again, and in the evening we turned our living room into a movie theatre. We watched Die Hard 3 complete with Spanish subtitles... ja ja ja.

Today my frustrations boiled over with the lack of organization for volunteers. We showed up at the clinic at 8am, but there still was no word on our transportation to the barrios or what was needed once we arrived. I thought Honduras was somewhat disorganized back in March, but Nica is much worse. I don't even know who to blame at this point: the man who set us up from the states, the clinic, or myself for thinking things would run smooth.

Last week we were set back because of the village festivities and this week because Rosalina has yet to travel to Rivas to present our medical papers to the government. She says it could take until Wednesday to have things made official, but I've reached the end of my rope. New Nica Mission: Practice my Spanish. The school at the end of my block has openings and the classes are one-on-one for four hours a day. So from 8am-12pm I will be attending the school and hopefully will be more fluent upon return. I felt like a little kid playing BINGO, but the teachers are awesome. Tonight I have my first tarea and then a bonfire with mis amigos.

Yes, I look really gross. I need a shower bad and I'm having some ridiculous allergies to something around here... maybe the heat. We got together at the end of class to play BINGO. That's Eric to my left and our new buddy Sara from UMass. My teacher Maria is very funny and insists to gossip sobre "mis novios" (about "my boyfriends").

Saturday, June 27, 2009

"I don't think you could ever have enough of this."

Dia Siete
I blame the fact that I didn't make it to the bus station this morning on Melissa Hernandez, teacher of ingles, from LA!

Nica Lesson #1 If you have a bus to catch at 6am you probably should not stay out until 4am partying. Iguana Bar. Tequila shots. The Jungle Room Disco. Hostel. Michael Jackson dance tribute, complete with white loofah glove and the moonwalk. Crash at 4am. Gil waking me up at 5am. Decide, no Ometepe for Erin.

Backup plan: Lay around at the Pelican Eyes Resort pool all day. Drink margaritas with friends and go back out tonight in honor of our newest roommate, Sarah from UMass. I promise to get serious on Monday.

The infinite pool. One of three pools at the resort. Nica sunshine + Margaritas + American cheeseburgers and fries. It can get no better. Our new strapping gentlemen surfer friend from Germany. We try to impress Michael with the fact that we are American medical students... turns out he's also in medical school... I guess that line wasn't so impressive after all.
My underwater camera is a success!
The Daily Ugly.
Heather's fourth photo shoot of the day.

Underwater tea parties. You're never too old.
Michael's second margarita ever. His first was ten minutes before this one. Personal favorite is decided: on the rocks with salt.

Friday, June 26, 2009

WIPEOUT

Mr. CrabDia Seis
Today, Melissa and I take a day trip to la playa de Madera. It is a twenty minute bus ride full of surfers from all over the world. I'm a little intimidated as this is my first time surfing, and it turns out we didn't exactly start on a bunny hill. Everyone takes off for the beach with their own boards that they carry in special surf board-carrying-bags. Melissa and I look for the rental hut. The next several hours are a beating. We get help from an eager guy from Connecticut, but neither of us actually ever stand up. Scratch that... I half got up once... only to be pummeled back down again by the unforgiving surf. Melissa hits her head and gives up. I have a blast even though I don't actually "catch a wave", but this does not matter because I now have a picture of myself standing next to a surf board... looking like a pro surfer. Everyone knows that's what really matters. Off to the bar now to hang out with new friends... and then Ometepe for the weekend... so I may be off for a couple of days. Ciao! My house.



Thursday, June 25, 2009

Esta Tranquilo!


Dia Cinco
Trip to Masaya

The trip to Masaya began with a meeting at the San Juan del Sur Escuela de Ingles where my new maestras (teachers) had planned a day trip to the lagoon, an active volcano, and the market place for shopping.

My group of friends here has slowly expanded and amongst the five Texans we now have Melissa, the maestra de ingles, from LA (not Boston, as previously posted), Heather and Noah, the estudiantes de medico from UMass, and several other amigos that ebb and flow in and out of our lives. On this particular day it's Mike and Eric, the geologists/surfers from Hawaii, and Anna, a really funny social worker from Chicago.

Note: we are all identified by a first name + occupation + original residence. Sometimes we add our local residence as well, for example, Mike and Eric live left from the church past the greased pole, and Melissa is cerca de the Texaco station on the edge of the main town. My temporary address is Sara Polmerez's casa verde past the church and next to Rosa's laundry.

Very few of us have cell phones so we plan to meet at 9:45am at the school. Masaya is probably only 40 miles away, and the following is run down of our trip.

9:45am Meet at the school
10:25am Still at the school, looking for two of the students.
10:35am Drive to the student's house, but no one is home.
10:45am Drive back and wait.
11:00am Students arrive and we're off to Masaya!

(4 teachers + 1 driver + 13 students = 18 in van)

11:15am Stop at gas station, but do not actually purchase gas. Teachers socialize with locals.
11:30am Stop at roadside stand for sugar water and DVD shopping.
12:00pm Stop at another gas station. Buy gas.
12:30pm Stop again. Pick something up/drop something off?
1:30pm Arrive at Museo de Volcano. 3 hour drive = approx 40 miles. Hungry.
2:00pm Check out Volcano. Smokey. Starving. Want friends to get back in van and look for food.
2:30pm Teachers want to drive to authentic Nica restaurant. We beg for Papa Johns. We win!
3:00pm Lunch. Happiness. Heaven on Earth. Christmas in June. Cheese sticks. Pepperoni Pizza. French Fries. Coca Cola. And most importantly, NO RICE. NO BEANS. NO PICKLED CABBAGE.
4:00pm Masaya Market
4:30pm Find out Michael Jackson just died. Oh yeah... Farah Fawcett too. Forgot the outside world existed.
5:00pm Leave Market and drive to Catarina to view Lagoon.
5:15pm Get stuck in mud.
5:30pm Get unstuck.
5:45pm Stop at another gas station. Again, do not actually purchase any gas.
6:00pm Catarina Market and Lagoon.
6:30pm Confusion. Van leaves without us. Taking two of the students to Managua for the airport. We are to wait here. Getting dark. Starting to rain. Managua should be 40 min roundtrip. We wait inside a restaurant.
8:00pm Van honks and we are saved!
8:15pm Pick up a rose from roadside garden.
8:45pm Drop off one of the teachers at a party.
10:00pm Home again.

Park facing exit. No joke. Faster getaway if the volcano should erupt.





Wednesday, June 24, 2009

Viva San Juan Baptista

Dia Quatro
First, the rest of last night. We party in the center of town until the rain starts coming down, and then it's a run and duck for cover at the corner bar. Here a group of random travelers including surfers with no real home, volunteers, and permanent vacationers are drinking, smoking, and enjoying the company. Melissa and I join a couple of gentlemen for a friendly game of Texas Hold'em. We have nothing of value to offer for betting so we settle on drinks of Tona and Victoria. Small blind = one drink, and big blind = two. I amaze myself with how well I'm playing... if only it were for actual money. However, when you play loser has to drink... everyone wins. I do not hesitate to have my fill of cerveza... in the hopes it will help me sleep through the long, hot night. I can tell even Gil is starting to feel the effects of the heat.
The morning brings weary humans slumbering uncomfortably anywhere that provides shade and a cool breeze. Scarlett is following my lead to the porch. I fear that soon we will all be sleeping together.
The day party kicked off at 5am with a parade through town. Considering our evening of drinking we lay around until noon before joining.
A group of men struggle up a greased pole with a flag at the top. The group that makes it wins cash. Other festivities include singing, dancing, a beauty contest, greased pig chase, and a rodeo of bull riding.

The man of the hour... San Juan Baptista.
The entire village of San Juan del Sur has come out for the festivities. The local population is approximately 10,000 (with more than half being under the age of 14), and a there are very few gringos here besides us. The community has not been overly affected by the outside world and there is both a mix of new technology including cell phones and Internet shops as well as old including horse drawn carriages and handwashed clothing.
You have to love fire crackers outside your window at all times of day and night.
Beauty contest.

The greased pole went on for hours as these gentlemen spit and cursed their way to the top. It was pure comedy to watch.


The rodeo. Not exactly sure what was going on in the arena. Sometimes bull riding. The rest of the time... harassing whatever poor animal was unlucky enough to find themselves amongst the crowd of teenage men that climbed up and over the fence.
Typical mode of transportation for the Nicans.
Pollo Rico! Yum. Yum.